Schleswig-Holstein, Germany’s northernmost state. It, sits between the Baltic Sea and the North Sea combining Viking history, coastal landscapes, fjords, islands and birdwatching. This Schleswig-Holstein travel guide covers Flensburg, Schleswig, the UNESCO-listed Haithabu Viking site, the Schlei fjord and the Halligen islands of the Wadden Sea.
We were guests of the German Tourist Board for our visit to Schleswig-Holstein
Schleswig-Holstein is in the very far north of Germany. The thin bit above Hamburg and below Denmark. Lapped by both the Baltic Sea and the North Sea, known as the Wadden Sea in these parts. Not many international tourists come here and those that do tend to stay south in the Holstein bit around Lubeck. We are going far north up into Viking territory. We will visit Germany’s most northerly city, Flensburg, her smallest town, Arnis, the most westerly point of the Baltic Sea, Schleswig and discover islands that are not islands all the time in the Wadden Sea.
Table of Contents
Why Visit Schleswig-Holstein?
Schleswig-Holstein is one of Germany’s hidden gems. Discover one of the Viking world’s most important settlements, destroyed in 1066 and only rediscovered in the 19th century, Haithabu is now a UNESCO world heritage site. History lurks round every corner. Cultural travel in Germany usually involves Baroque palaces, here you are on the trail UNESCO listed Viking settlements. This was the very edge of the Viking world. The Danewerke (Danevirke), the longest archaeological soil work in Northern Europe, was built to protect this border. Slow travel is what a visit to Schleswig-Holstein is all about, take time to take in the views and savour the peace.
When I told people that I was going to Schleswig-Holstein I was greeted with one of two responses. First was, all I know about Schleswig-Holstein is that quote from history at school. “That” quote is by Lord Palmerston, the former British Prime Minister, “Only three people have ever really understood the Schleswig-Holstein business. The Prince Consort who is dead. A German professor, who has gone mad and I, who have forgotten all about it.”. The other response was, where is that? Read on to discover why you need to visit Schleswig-Holstein
Flensburg: Germany’s Most Northerly City
Flensburg is Germany’s most northerly city, the Danish border is about 10km away from the city centre. As you wander around the streets, it feels quite Danish. You hear both German and Danish being spoken. The city is a popular weekend destination for Danes who find it much cheaper to shop and eat here than at home.
Exploring Flensburg’s Historic Harbour
Flensburg Fjord is what made Flensburg a thriving port. Goods flowed in and out of here all over the world. Nowadays the harbour is a pleasant place to stroll, with many tempting bars, cafés and restaurants. Modern sailing yachts bob gently at the moorings. Head to the Schifffahrtsmuseum to learn more about the history of the port and see an impressive collection of old wooden working boats.
Flensburg Merchant Houses and Rum History
Stroll down Flensburg’s main street and in among the shops you will see entrances to courtyards. These are, or were, merchants houses. Long courtyards snaking down to the harbour that were lined with warehouses, as well as the merchants homes. Nowadays they are filled with shops, offices, restaurants. Sugar from the Caribbean was imported to Flensburg and then used to make rum. Rum is still made here today, head to Braasch Rum Museum both to learn all about the rum trade in Flensburg.
Schleswig and Haithabu: The Viking Heart of Schleswig-Holstein
Look at Schleswig today and you see a small, pretty, waterside town. Roll back the centuries to the Viking age and you would have been in one of the most important commercial hubs of the Viking world. From here it is only 15 kilometres to the navigable Treene river which flows into the Eider river and then the North Sea. A wooden road connected two. Sailing up the Schlei, unloading your cargo and dragging it 15km overland was safer, quicker and easier than going round the top of Denmark. This was the southern most edge of the Viking world. To protect to the border an earth work was built, the Danewerke or Danevirke, you can still see it today. UNESCO protected and the largest archeological soil work in Northern Europe.
Discovering Schleswig
Nowadays Schleswig is a sleepy place but once upon time Schleswig was very important. Wander around the cute cobbled streets lined with handsome buildings. On the edge of the old town you will see a sign declaring that you are in Holm. Once upon a time, Holm was a island inhabited by fisherman. Now it is part of the mainland, but you can plainly see the shape of the island, with a small church in the middle surrounded by fisherman’s cottages.
Schleswig Cathedral or St Petri Dom
You can see the spire of Schleswig Cathedral from miles away. Step inside to discover a magnificent interior that shows that Schleswig was once a very important place. Founded in the 12th century and added to ever since. Head straight for the magnificent Bordesholmer high altar, it took seven years to carve this intricate masterpiece. Four hundred figures tell the story of the Passion, Descent and Resurrection. Don’t miss the tomb of King Frederick I of Denmark, Norway and Duke of Schleswig and Holstein. We climbed the tower for great views across Schleswig and the Schlei estuary.
Visiting Haithabu Viking Museum
The Vikings actually lived on the opposite side of the estuary to modern day Schleswig in a place called Haithabu or Hedeby. 1,500 people lived here, that’s more than York or Dublin at the time. It was totally destroyed in 1066 in a raid by Slavs. No one knows why the city was rebuilt on the northern shore. Over time Hedeby was forgotten, living on only in ancient documents. Then in the 19th century archeologists rediscovered the site. The damp conditions mean that whole houses and large sections of boats have been found. The entire site is a UNESCO world heritage site. In one corner some Viking houses have been reconstructed, so you walk round getting a feel for what life would have been like. Make sure not to miss the museum filled with finds from the site. Take time to sit in the excellent cafe taking in the views over what was once a large city.
Before you leave Haithabu be sure to take a look at the Viking pedestrian lights. I might have crossed the road several times, just to see the lights!
The Schlei – Germany’s Northern Baltic Fjord
Before we set off exploring the Schlei, a quick word about what the Schlei is. A hint lies in its German name Ostseefjord Schlei, the Schlei is a fjord, a long narrow inlet of the Baltic Sea. 26 miles (42km) long from its mouth to Schleswig where it ends. Sea eagles nest just outside Schleswig and the whole Schleswig estuary is a great place to see migrating birds.
Villages and Landscapes Along the Schlei
Blue, yellow and green were the colours of the Schlei fjord when I visited in late April. Yellow fields of rape, green leaves, blue skies and sea. We spent one day exploring Schleswig and Haithabu and then devoted a day to Kappeln, a boat to go to the Schleimünde and Arnis. Two perfect days.
Kappeln
Kappeln is a bustling fishing town. Boats sail along the Schlei causing the swing bridge to open often. Take a second look at the row of wooden posts in the Schlei at Kappeln, they are the last remaining herring trap in Europe! Away from waterside, walk up to the St Nikolai church, inside it is a late Baroque gem. If you get the chance to attend a concert in St Nikolai, grab it.
Boat trip down the Schlei
By far the best way to see the Schlei is from the deck of a boat. We sailed on the MS Stadt Kappeln, boarding from the quay by the Schleibrücke in Kappeln heading toward the Schleimünde lighthouse. Our voyage took about 50 minutes taking us past fields and bird filled reed beds. There are two sailings a day in summer at 11am and 2pm, we took the morning sailing and ate lunch onboard on the way back.
Schleimünde lighthouse
I can never resist a lighthouse. The Schleimünde lighthouse guards the entrance of the Schlei. Sailors can spot the 14 metre tall, green and white striped tower from far out to sea. Surrounded by sea and bird sanctuaries, the only way to get there is by boat. Known as the Pilot Island, lighthouse keepers or pilots used to live here. Nowadays their house is empty and there is only a small shop and restaurant. This is a place to look at the ever changing seascape and watch the myriad of migrating birds that pass this way.
Arnis – Germany’s smallest town
Smallest, tallest, most easterly… you get the gist, I can never resist these either. Arnis is proudly the smallest town in Germany, both in terms of size and population. It was founded in 1667 by a group of ship captains who lived in Kappeln but didn’t want to be serfs. The King agreed that they could leave Kappeln and not be serfs provided they settle in Arnis and collect tolls from ships sailing along the Schlei. Nowadays it is a picture perfect place. I spent a perfect hour and a half meandering along the main street and then sat eating coffee and cake overlooking the water at the Schleiperle.
Wadden Sea Islands and Halligen in Schleswig-Holstein
Heading over to the west coast of Schleswig-Holsten where the North Sea is known as the Wadden Sea. Dotted with the North Frisian Islands with ferries criss crossing to connect to mainland. The whole Wadden Sea area is UNESCO listed, previously we have visited the Dutch Wadden Islands and loved them. Islands like Sylt with their long sandy beaches are popular and chic holiday destinations.
Understanding the Wadden Sea
Stand on the sea wall at Dagebüll and look out across the island dotted Wadden Sea. What you are looking at is the largest unbroken system of intertidal sand and mudflats in the world. Stretching from the Netherlands all the way to Denmark. Winds and tides are largely undisturbed creating a network of islands, mudflats and salt marshes. That is why Wadden Sea and Frisian Islands are UNESCO listed. Birds love the North Frisian Islands, they are an essential pitstop on the Eastern Atlantic Flyaway. Every spring and autumn millions of birds stop here on their way between Siberia and Africa.
Visiting Langeneß Hallig in the Wadden Sea
Langeneß is the largest inhabited Hallig with around 100 residents. Langeneß Hallig is one of the most special places I have ever visited. Huge skies, salt marshes filled with honking geese and glimpses across the sea to other bigger islands.
What is a Hallig?
Not all islands are actual islands in the Wadden Sea, some are Halligen. What is a Hallig? Yes, first of all, Hallig singular, Halligen plural. A Hallig is an island surrounded by mudflats and salt marshes and connected to the mainland at low tide. There are twelve Halligen in the North Wadden Sea, some are home only to birds. Halligen are essentially raised areas of marshland, houses are built on manmade mounds called Warften.
How to get to Langneß and Öland
For a day trip or longer you can catch a ferry to Langeneß from Schlüttsiel, tourist cars are not allowed on the island, you can hire bikes from near to where the ferry docks or take an island taxi. You can walk to both! Do NOT do this without a guide! Overnight visitors to Öland, need to take the Lore, an a tiny narrow gauge train with open carriages. Riding on the Lore is only available to people with booked overnight accommodation on Öland.
What to do on Langeneß
Walking, cycling and birdwatching. When I visited in early May I saw lots and lots of Dark bellied Brent Geese gathering fuel for the final leg of their journey to Siberia, the week before you could barely see the ground for geese. The ones I saw were the late travellers. Dunlin and Oystercatchers stalked across the mudflats and high above a sea eagle wheeled around. For an insight into island life visit the Kapitän Tadsen museum, a former sea captain’s house furnished as it was in the last century.
Mud walking in the Wadden Sea
Yes, you can walk on the mud. It even has a name. Watt walking. Wattenmeer is the German word for mudflat. Do not venture far without a guide, it is easy to get caught out by the tide. We started our walk on the mainland from Dagebüll with guide Selse Jacobs. Tide times were against us and so we didn’t walk across to the Halligen but rather across the mud flats noticing the wildlife as we went. My big takeaway? Beneath your feet is a city of Lugworms who live in semi circular burrows purifying the mud as they filter it for the tiny sea creatures that they eat. Squelching across the mud barefoot was a beautiful experience, don’t worry there is a tap to sluice off the mud at the end of your tour.
Practical Tips for Visiting Schleswig-Holstein, Germany
Getting to Schleswig-Holstein
Fast and frequent trains leave Hamburg heading for Flensburg, Schleswig and Sylt. From London you get to Hamburg by train changing at Brussels and Cologne in about 10 hours. I flew into Hamburg Airport and then drove.
When to visit Schleswig-Holstein
Germans flock to the beaches of Schleswig-Holstein in the summer, it is the perfect time to load days on sandy beaches. I visited in May when we had long sunny days without the crowds. For bird watching March to May and August to October is the best time to see huge flocks of birds on the move.
Where to stay in Schleswig-Holstein
We stayed in Flensburg and made day trips out exploring the rest of the peninsula.
- Hotel Alte Post, Flensburg Modern hotel, between the fjord and town, housed in a converted sorting office.
- Ankers Hörn – Langeneß we didn’t stay here, but did eat lunch, this is where I will bring Mr CW to stay
- Eichhorns – if you want to stay out of a town and on the mainland. Eichhorns offers chic rooms in Leck between the two seas. Once again, I didn’t stay here but ate dinner
Eating in Schleswig- Holstein, Germany
What to eat in Schleswig-Holstein is simply answered with the word, Fish. With two seas lapping at the edges of the region fresh fish is abundant. For lunch be sure to try a Fischbrötchen, literally a fish roll. My favourites were Krabben, teeny tiny shrimps and Matjes, pickled herring. I visited in May during asparagus season and so everywhere had an asparagus menu. Germans like their asparagus thick and white, it tastes similar but different to the thinner, green asparagus that we are used to in the UK. To drink Flensburger beer is brewed locally and rum.
Here is where I ate during my stay in Schlewig-Holstein
- Hotel Hafen, Flensburg – traditional food with a twist, right on the harbour’s edge
- Piet in Fischmarkt, Flensburg – right on the harbours edge, excellent fresh fish and a superb place for a sunset drink
- Bistro Zander’s Nordlicht, Schleswig – right on the waterfront at Schleswig. I ate excellent Fischbrötchen but see tasty looking larger plates of food heading to nearby tables
- Odins Gasthof, Haithabu – waterside restaurant at the entrance to the Haithabu museum. Fresh cooked pizzas and traditional fish and meat
- Eichhorns, Leck – traditional food served in a chic modern setting
- Lecker Tee, Leck – for something completely different, discover the Frisian tradition of tea drinking at Lecker Tee in Leck
- Schleiperle, Arnis – waterside cafe. I spent a perfect hour here eating poppyseed cake and drinking coffee whilst watching boats bob up and down
Schleswig-Holstein, Germany Itinerary
How long do you need to see Schleswig-Holstein? My visit lasted four days during which I explored Flensburg and Schleswig, sailed up the Schlei and crossed over to Langeneß. For a more leisurely trip I would add on an extra night which I would spend on Langeneß.
- Day 1: Flensburg – Arrive in Flensburg, check in to the Post Hotel and then explore Flensburg. Dinner in Hotel Hafen.
- Day 2: Schleswig and Haithabu – Head to Schleswig and spend the morning exploring the Cathedral, old town and holm before eating lunch by the harbour at Bistro Zander’s. We then caught a bus to Haithabu, walked along the Danewerk, peered into Viking houses and visited the museum. We ate an early dinner at Odin’s before heading back to Flensburg.
- Day 3: The Schlei – After breakfast head to Kappeln and explore before boarding the MS Stadt Kappeln bound for Schleimünde, eat lunch onboard on the way back. Explore Arnis and take time for coffee and cake in the afternoon.
- Day 4: Langeneß and the Wadden Sea – Ships sail to Langeneß from Schlüttsiel. We ate lunch at Anker’s Horn. I long to return to Langeneß to stay the night.
Why Schleswig-Holstein Deserves More Visitors
As an East Anglian it is in my DNA to love wide open landscapes with big skies, edged with the sea. Schleswig-Holstein delivers all of these with added Vikings! This is an area that was on the edge of the Viking world and has flipped between Danish and German nationality many times. Nowadays it is a quiet backwater but back in the time of the Vikings it was a vital trade conduit. Visit for history, landscapes, beaches and birds, the perfect slow travel destination. I will be back.
Germany’s Most Extreme Points
Whilst writing this post I realise that I have now visited Germany’s most northerly, southerly, easterly and westerly cities. Add to that her highest point and smallest city. This feat has taken many decades. Germany was the first “abroad” that I ever visited. In 1973 on a school trip I visited the top of the Zugspitze, Germany’s highest point. In 1977, another school trip stopped off in Aachen, Germany’s most westerly city, many decades later (when the blog was young) we popped into Aachen again.No blogs or digital photo’s from 1973! Then in 1983, I was living in Mannheim and visited Freiburg, Germany’s most southerly city. Again no photos but we came close on our Viking Rhine River Cruise. Görlitz, is Germany’s most easterly city, which I visited a couple of years ago. Germany also has a southern coast in the form of the Bodensee. I have been visiting (and have lived in) Germany for more than four decades and am still discovering new places. Which is your favourite German place?
Germany apart, we love to explore UNESCO heritage sites. Our blog travels have taken us to UNESCO heritage sites around Tunisia, across the Netherlands, to Marrakesh, Palma de Mallorca and to actually sleep in one at Fontevraud in France.
