Antwerp is one of my favourite cities. Baroque Art and Architecture are everywhere you look. Every time I visit I see something new. On my most recent visit we followed in Peter Paul Rubens’ footsteps. We visited churches, houses and gardens that would have been familiar to him. We saw his artworks hanging in the places that he painted them for.
AD: This post is part of a paid collaboration with Visit Flanders
If you’re an art lover planning a weekend in Antwerp, following in the footsteps of Rubens is the perfect way to explore the city. Antwerp is home to Rubens’ house, his parish church, and many of his masterpieces still hanging in their original settings. Prepare for a feast of Baroque interiors. Take a look at my general Antwerp post for ideas about where to eat and stay.
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Who was Rubens?
Peter Paul Rubens grew up in Antwerp. He lived and worked here. You can walk around his garden. Visit his friends houses. See his paintings in the churches he painted them for. Step inside his parish church where he is buried. I’m guessing that if you are reading this post you have least heard of Rubens! He was painter. Born in Siegen, Germany in 1577, but his father came from Antwerp. When Rubens was twelve or so the family came back to Antwerp where he stayed. Rubens father was lawyer in court circles and it was expected that Peter Paul would follow the same path but he really, really wanted to paint. HIs portraits and religious paintings were soon in demand across Europe. He not only painted but acted as a diplomat.
Where can I see Rubens paintings in Antwerp?
You can see Rubens’ masterpieces in several Antwerp locations. The most famous are in Antwerp Cathedral of Our Lady, which has four Rubens altarpieces. You’ll also find his works in St Paul’s Church, St Charles Borromeo Church, the Museum Plantin-Moretus, and the KMSKA (Museum of Fine Arts Antwerp).
Rubens in Antwerp Tour Itinerary
On this tour we will visit Rubens house and garden, his friends houses and lots and lots of churches. Spaces which Rubens would have known. You will see what he saw. At the end we’ll pop into KMSKA to see his paintings in gallery setting.
Rubens House and Garden
Rubens House itself is undergoing restoration until 2027. You can however visit his garden. At the centre a fountain plays. It is a garden for all seasons. Tulips in spring. Perennials all summer. Hedges and structure in the winter. I have visited at different times of year and always been captivated. Downstairs in visitor centre you can see a multi media Rubens experience looking at his life and work. The perfect introduction the Rubens in Antwerp.
- Rubens Huis
- Open: Daily 10am – 5pm
- Admission: €12
Snijders Rockox House
Frans Snijders and Nicolaas Rockox lived in neighbouring houses on Keizerstraat. Both knew Rubens. Frans Snijders was a fellow artist, still lives were his thing. Nicolaas Rockox was mayor of Antwerp. Now their houses have been restored and you can visit. Wander around the exquisite black and white tiled rooms. Paintings by Rubens hang on the walls. My favourites are portraits of Archduke Albert and Infanta Isabella, the rulers of the Spanish Netherlands in Rubens time. Isabella was a remarkable woman and I love the way that she seems to have a spark in her eye.
- Snijders Rockox House
- Open: Daily 10am – 5pm
- Admission: €10
Antwerp Cathedral of our Lady
Not one but four Rubens altarpieces hang in Antwerp Cathedral. Three absolutely enormous ones immediately obvious by the large crowds gathered at around them. Try to time your viewing in between the many tour groups. The fourth is hidden away In a side chapel in memory Jan Moretus, commissioned by his widow Martina Plantin. We will meet them again at our next stop.
- Antwerp Cathedral
- Open: Weekdays: 10 am – 5 pm, Saturday: 10 am – 3 pm, Sunday: 1 pm – 5 pm
- Admission: €12
Museum Plantin Moretus
In Rubens’ time the museum was both home and workshop to Jan Moretus and his wife Martina Plantin. Both were his friends. Step inside to see a series of portraits that Rubens made of the Plantin Moretus family.
- Museum Plantin Moretus
- Open: Tuesday – Sunday 10am – 5pm
- Admission: €12
St Charles Borremeo Church
St Charles Borremeo is a black and white gilded confection. Built for the Jesuits in 1615. Rubens was directly involved with the building and design of the church. He painted thirty nine panels for the ceiling. Unfortunately they were all lost in a fire in the 18th century. Visit for the stunning interior.
- St Charles Borromeo Church
- Open: Monday–Saturday: 10 am–12.30 pm and 2–5 pm
- Admission: €5
St Paul’s Church
It took me four attempt to actually get inside St Paul’s Church but it was well worth the wait. Inside you will find a gallery of paintings created by the cream of Antwerp’s Baroque artists. Rubens and Van Dyck among them. At the time of my visit that side of the church was being restored and so the Rubens and Van Dyck paintings are on display by the altar at eye level. This means that you can see them up close as never before.
TOP TIP: About getting to St Paul’s Church. IGNORE Google maps! The entrance is on the corner of Veemarkt and Zwartzusterstraat
- St Pauls’ Church
- Open: April – October 2025 daily 2 pm – 5 pm
- November – March opening times will vary according to how the restoration is coming on. Up to date information will be in church newsletter, so if you are planning a winter visit sign up to their newsletter via the link above.
- Admission: €5
St James’ Church
St James’ was Rubens parish church. He worshipped here. Is buried here. At present the church is being renovated and so it is not possible to see his tomb. Plan your visit for after April 2026 to see the church in its full glory.
- St James’ Church
- Open: 2–5 pm
- Admission: Free
KMSKA or the Museum of Fine Arts Antwerp
KMSKA has a fine selection of Rubens paintings. Originally he created them for the Guild of St Luke of which he was secretary. Then Napoleon took a fancy to them and carried them off to France. After the battle of Waterloo they came back home to Antwerp and the newly established gallery.
- KMSKA
- Open: Daily 10am- 5pm (6pm at weekends)
- Admission: €20
How long do you need to see all the Rubens sites in Antwerp?
Two days is the ideal amount of time. In one full day you can visit Rubens’ garden, the Cathedral, Snijders & Rockox House, and one or two churches. Reserve half a day for the KMSKA to enjoy both the Rubens collection and the wider galleries.
A word about opening times
In an ideal world you would visit Rubens in a circuit. In reality opening times make that tricky. Some of the churches are only open in the afternoons. Some are closed on Sunday. The Rubenshuis is closed on Wednesdays. Winter and summer opening times differ. St James, St Pauls and the Rubenshuis are all undergoing restoration, so what you can see changes as work progresses. Click on the links above to check opening times before you visit.
Antwerp City Pass
We used an Antwerp City Pass during our Rubens tour of Antwerp. It got us into all of the places that charged for entry and includes public transport. The entrance fees for all the places we visited adds up to €71 and a pass costs €45 for one day, €55 for two or €65 for three. You can buy online have the card as an app on your phone. https://antwerpcitypass.be
Planning an Antwerp city break? Combine Rubens with fashion, diamonds, and contemporary art. Check out my full Antwerp guide for tips on where to stay and eat.
Belgium is stuffed full of art filled towns, each weekend sized and easily accessible by train, check out my guide to Belgian Cities by Train.
