Riga is the perfect weekend destination, read on for my ultimate Riga Weekend itinerary. Riga’s centre, all of it, is UNESCO listed. Right in the middle is a core of medieval streets. Then there are the Art Nouveau buildings. More than anywhere else in Europe. Even the Central Food market is UNESCO listed, housed in a series of Zeppelin hangers. Even better a visit to the seaside is just a short train ride away.
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Two Day Riga Weekend Itinerary
You can see all the main highlights of Riga in two days. Time enough to explore the Old Town, tour the Art Nouveau buildings, eat your fill in the central market and take in spectacular sun sets from the Skyline bar.
Day One: Discover Old Town Riga
Eye popping architecture is why you come to Riga. Exploring the medieval old town is best done on foot, so wear comfortable shoes. Riga is the perfect place meander, so choose your own route making sure that you see these highlights by the end of your wandering. We started with climbing St Peter’s Church Tower to get an idea of how the city is laid out and finished with Black Balsam cocktails.
St Peter’s Church
St Peter’s Church is the tallest in Riga which is why we wanted to climb it for the view. It was originally built from wood in the 12th century but burnt down twice and rebuilt in 1409 and 1671. In 1941 the church was bombed and destroyed. The Russians rebuilt the church in the style of 1671 building in 1954 but it was not until 1970 that the steeple was finished, topped off with a Rooster. Downstairs in the church you can see a collection of Roosters that have adorned the steeple over the years. There is a lift to get you to the top of the steeple but you do have climb some steps to get to the lift. Once at the top the views are stunning. In the distance you can see the Television Tower looking very much like the Eifel Tower. Over the Daugava river is the modern public library and immediately beneath you a maze of medieval streets.
- St Peter’s Church,Reformācijas Laukums 1
- Open: Daily 10am – 6pm (Friday & Saturday until 10pm)
- Admission: Tower and Church €9 just church €3
Riga Cathedral
Riga has many squares, biggest and most imposing of all is the Dome Square, when we visited there were giant screens showing a big Ice Hockey tournament. Riga Cathedral (Rīgas Doms) dominates one side of the square. Inside you will find tranquil cloisters and a mix of early Gothic and Baroque architecture. We timed our visit for the daily midday organ concert, to hear what is reckoned to be one of the finest church organs in Europe.
- Riga Cathedral,Herdera laukums 6
- Open: Monday – Saturday 10am – 5pm, Sunday 2 – 5pm
- Admission: €5 or including €15 concert
House of the Blackheads
When the House of the Blackheads was built in the 14th century as a guild for unmarried merchants, it was the grandest building in the city. It is still pretty magnificent. It stood proudly for centuries until World War 2 when it was badly damaged and only restored to its former glory in 1999.
- House of the Blackheads, Rātslaukums 7
- Open: Daily 10am – 5pm
- Admission: €8
Latvian Riflemen Sculpture
A spot of controversy now. The Soviet Realism sculpture of three Latvian Riflemen dates from the Soviet era. The Latvian Riflemen were founded in 1915 as part of the Imperial Russian Army to defend Latvia against the German army in the First World War 9,000 of them died. After the war the battalion went on to be Lenin’s personal bodyguards. Some see the sculpture as a symbol of the communist system and others feel the sacrifice of the men that served and died in the war should be honoured.
Three Brothers Houses
Three pastel coloured, gable end houses nestle next to each other on Mazā Pils iela, these are the Three Brothers. Legend has it that the houses were built by three brothers in or around 1400, but who knows! Now they are home to the Latvian Architecture Museum, which closed at weekends and so we didn’t visit.
- Latvian Architecture Museum (Latvijas Arhitektūras Muzejs), Mazā Pils iela 19
- Open: Monday 9am – 6pm, Tuesday 9am – 5pm, Wednesday 9am – 7pm, Thursday 9am – 5pm, Friday 9am – 4pm
- Admission: Free
Swedish Gate
Once upon a time Riga was surrounded by walls and entry only possible through gates. Over time the walls have crumbled and only the Swedish Gate remains.
Powder Tower
Walk along Torņa iela, the road that runs from the Swedish Gate to the Powder Tower. On one side is the old town wall, restored in parts and on the other former barracks building. At the end of the road is round tower, this is the Powder Tower and dates from 1330. For many years it was used as gunpowder store, hence its name but since 1919 it has been home to the Latvian War Museum.
- Latvian War Museum (Latvia’s Kara Muzejis), Smilšu iela 20
- Open: Tuesday – Sunday 10am – 6pm
- Admission: Free
Riga Castle
Work began on Riga Castle in 1330. Since then it has been severely battered in wars, rebuilt and been home to many rulers. During the Soviet era it was home to the young communists’ organisation. In 1995 it became the official presidential residence of the newly independent Latvia. Usually all you can do is gaze at outside and sentry boxes. We were extremely lucky and got to go inside as our visit coincided with International Museum Day (May 18 every year).
Cat House
Every where you go in Riga you see images of black cats. They are the unofficial symbol of the city. My favourite of all the cats are high up on a roof top. Head to 10 Meistaru iela and look up to the top of the turrets. There you will see a black cat. Legend has it that the tradesman who commissioned the house had been refused membership to the Riga Tradesmen’s Guild. In a subtle act of revenge he had the cats placed with their bottoms toward the Guild building opposite the church. It is either that or he had a dispute with the City Council and had the cats raising their tails in disgust at the town hall. Or he just liked cats.
Drink Riga Black Balsam
Riga Black Balsam is the national drink of Latvia. The place to try Black Balsam is at Cafe Riga Black Magic, where you can learn to full story of the brew as well as drinking it. According to tradition only the master brewer and two of his assistants know the full list of ingredients. I can tell you that liquorice is one of them. Liquorice is the one thing that I cannot eat. However my friends all drank cocktails based on Black Balsam and declared them delicious. If you plan to end your sightseeing day here it is best to book a table.
Day Two: Central Market and Art Nouveau
Start your second day in Riga with a visit to the food market making sure that you at least have a coffee and cake. Then walk through the park via the Freedom Monument to the Art Nouveau district. Finish your day with a stroll along the river and sunset cocktails at the Skyline Bar.
Central Market
Two things I love; a food market and a UNESCO site. Riga’s central market is both these things. Europe’s largest market is housed in an amazing industrial heritage building. The five giant arches that make up the market were originally Zeppelin hangers. Each of the five arches sell different things, meat, general house stuff, fresh produce, fish and cakes (well not all cakes more like a deli). You can eat there. Mainly though this is the place that Riga comes to do its food shopping.
Latvian National Opera
If you love Opera and Ballet and are visiting Riga between September to early May then you are in for a treat. Riga Opera and Ballet tickets cost a fraction of London prices, the productions are excellent and the building beautiful. We were a week too late, next time!
Freedom Monument
You can’t miss the Freedom Monument in Riga. A 19 metre tall figure of Liberty holding three golden stars stands on top of 42 metre column. At the base of the column are figures from the Latvian national story. The Freedom Monument was built to honour the soldiers who died in the Latvian War of Independence (1918-20). It was threatened with destruction during the Soviet era but survived and is now a much loved symbol of independence.
Art Nouveau Tour
Nearly one third of all buildings in the centre of Riga are in the Art Nouveau or Jugendstil style. At the end of nineteenth century Riga was booming and Art Nouveau the preferred style of the new rich. Alberta iela, Elizabetes iela, Antonijas iela. Almost every building in this area is gem. Keep a look out for railings and doors too.
Art Nouveau museum
You can even go inside one of the art nouveau buildings. The Art Nouveau museum is housed in the ground floor apartment, make sure you take a look at the staircase before you go in. Inside the apartment is furnished as it would have been around the time it was built. Downstairs is a brief history of Art Nouveau in Riga and the opportunity to dress up to match the era.
- Art Nouveau museum, Alberta iela 12
- Open: Tuesday – Sunday 10am – 6pm
- Admission: Summer €9 Winter €5
Stroll along the banks of the River Daugava
We finished our day by heading toward the river bank, where we ate dinner at KOYA and then took in the magnificent sunset as we strolled back along the river to our hotel.
Big Christopher statue
By the Vansu bridge you will find a large wooden sculpture encased in a glass box, this is Big Christopher. Legend has it that a child asked Big Christopher to carry him across the river. As he crossed the child became heavier and heavier but Big Christopher continued and got the child safely across the river. Then he was so tired that he lay down to sleep. In the morning the child was gone and its place a pile of gold. Big Christopher used the money to found Riga.
Three Day Riga weekend itinerary
For a more leisurely three day visit. Take in the Old Town, Art Nouveau area and Central Market on two days and then on the third head out to beach. If you are feeling energetic you can hire a bike get there along the Riga to Jūrmala cycle path which will take you a couple of hours. We caught the train.
Day 3: Jūrmala Beach
Imagine 32 kilometres of perfect sandy beach with sand dunes and pine forests behind. That is Jūrmala beach on the Gulf of Riga. We caught the train from Riga central station to Bulduri and then walked through the pine forest to the beach. Then we walked along the beach to Majori stopping at one of the many beach cafés for a coffee and then caught the train back to Riga. Trains run every half hour, take about half an hour and are incredibly cheap €1.50 single or €2.93 return. Buy your tickets from the train station.
Majori
Majori is the biggest settlement along Jūrmala beach. Jonas iela runs through the centre and is lined with the traditional wooden houses of the area. If you want to buy amber or wooden things, there are many stalls and shops selling them here. If you visit in the summer the Dzintaru Concert Hall has a full programme of outdoor concerts.
Eating and Drinking in Riga
Whilst in Riga make sure that eat Rye bread, Garlic Bread (which in Riga is fried Rye Bread), Honey cake and fish. To drink try Kvass which is really refreshing and made from fermented Rye bread. Here is where we ate and drank
- Purunāsim Kafe’taeta, Mazā Pils iela 4: close to the Three Brothers and is reckoned to be the most romantic cafe in Riga. It is certainly very pretty and has a lovely courtyard to sit in. This is where we tried Honey Cake.
- Molberts One of the best ice creams I have had anywhere. A quick google tells me that there are various outlets in and around Riga the one we visited was at Zigfrīda Annas Meierovica Bulvāris 12. We bought cones and ate them in the park opposite.
- KOYA Andrejostas iela 5k-15: right on the river bank, definitely more of a summer place than a wet day or winter one.
- Kalku Vārti, Jauniela 20: serves modern Latvian food in the heart of the old town.
- Andalūzijas Suns, Elizabetes iela 83: serves Spanish influenced food, it is laid back and has an excellent outside terrace. A good pit stop during your Art Nouveau exploration.
- Skyline Bar on top of the Radisson Blu hotel on Elizabetes iela for unrivalled views across Riga, especially spectacular at sunset.
Where to stay in Riga
Staying in Old Town means that you will be near to everything you want to see (except the beach) and never a few steps away from a restaurant. We stayed in the Radisson Old Town which is right next to the Powder Tower and just over the road from the park.
Practical tips for visiting Riga
Arriving in Riga
You can travel to Riga by train and ferry from the UK but the journey would take all of your weekend, so I’m assuming you will arrive by plane. You can catch the 22 bus from the centre or take a cab. We downloaded the Bolt app (like Uber but more popular in Riga) and booked a cab which cost €10.
Getting around Riga
Walking is the way to go when exploring the Old Town and Art Nouveau area. Everywhere is quite close, so make sure you wear comfy shoes. To get out to the beach we caught the train which was cheap and easy.
Best time to visit Riga
Spring and summer are the best times to visit Riga. From May to September you can expect sun and long days. In the winter the weather can be very cold.
Quick History of Riga
Riga was founded back in the 2nd century by the Vikings for whom it was an important port on the the route to the Dneiper. In the 13th century Riga joined the Hanseatic League of Baltic ports and became very prosperous, that’s when the medieval centre was built. All those Art Nouveau buildings were constructed in the 19th century when Riga industry and timber bought prosperity to the city.
The 20th century was one of many great changes. In 1918 at the end of World War 1 Latvia became independent for the first time after centuries of rule by the Germans, Swedes and Russians. Then in 1940 Germany annexed Latvia and occupied her until the end of World War 2. Then Latvia became part of the Soviet Union until the fall of Communism. Ever since 21 August 1991 Latvia has been independent once more and is now a member of both the European Union and NATO.
Cultural Wednesday loves to explore on a weekend break check out our guide to Chemnitz in Germany and Palma de Mallorca which are also home to some Art Nouveau gems
