Prettiest city in Germany? Most easterly city in Germany? Film-location capital of Germany? The answer to all of these is Görlitz. From Dresden a day trip to Görlitz takes you to a picture perfect town nestled on the Polish border. Crammed with supremely pretty buildings, it is beloved by filmmakers. Walking through the old town is like reading a lavish book of the history of German architecture over the last 500 years, stretching from Gothic through the Renaissance right up to Art Nouveau. Here’s my itinerary for one perfect day in Görlitz — what to see, do and eat.
I visited Görlitz as a guest of the German National Tourist Board
Table of Contents
How to Get to Görlitz
First things first, I’m assuming that you are travelling by train. Direct trains from Dresden-Neustadt take about 1¼ hours and depart every half-hour. You will need to change to go to Dresden Hauptbahnhof if you are staying in the centre. On the way you whoosh past seriously pretty scenery. It was springtime when I travelled, and the countryside was dotted with fields of bright yellow — which I assume was either mustard or rapeseed. From Berlin you will need to change trains at Dresden and the journey will take about three hours, so I’d recommend staying the night.
What to See in Görlitz
Things to do in Görlitz in one day: my route takes you from the train station into the heart of the old town, to the border with Poland and back taking in the attractions of Görlitz as we go. Before you set off, take a look at the Art Nouveau tiling and glass of the station. As you walk down Berliner Straße keep an eye open for the Strassburg Passage on your left, a beautiful Art Nouveau shopping arcade.
Kaufhaus aka the Grand Budapest Hotel
Take time to marvel at the Art Nouveau Kaufhaus, once dubbed the most beautiful shop in Germany and now catnip to film producers. Wes Anderson was so impressed that he used it as the interior of The Grand Budapest Hotel. Sadly, you cannot go inside as the building is being renovated. I contented myself with peering through the front door, for which I was rewarded with a tantalising glimpse.
Obermarkt for Beautiful Baroque Buildings
A fine square edged by pastel-coloured Baroque buildings lines the Obermarkt. At one end of the square is the Reichenbacher Turm, which was once the gateway into the old town; nowadays you can climb the tower for a fine view across Görlitz. Once upon a time this was the Via Regia, an ancient trade route stretching from Kiev to France. All manner of travellers passed this way.
Brüderstraße following the Via Regia
Continue on down from the Obermarkt into Brüderstraße. My attention was taken by the many shops selling seriously tempting Lusatian pottery, which were sadly all shut at the time of my visit. Mr CW was quite pleased, as I would have spent a lot of money and had fragile things to take home with me!
Untermarkt the Movie-Star Square
Prepare to have your socks knocked off. The Untermarkt in Görlitz is reckoned to be one of the finest squares in Germany. Every building is a stunner. If you thought the Obermarkt was pretty, then prepare to have your breath taken away at the Untermarkt. On the corner as you go in is the Rathaus, with an impressive balcony for announcements and a spectacular clock.
Der Braune Hirch a chameleon film star
Opposite the Rathaus is Der Braune Hirsch, a peach-coloured house with a brown deer (hence the name) and arches at street level. Take a good look — this is a movie star that you may not recognise. Over the years the building has been portrayed as a pharmacy, a hotel and even just a house.
Schlesesische Museum zu Görlitz aka Schönhof or Beautiful House
In a town full of beautiful houses the one that gets to be called the Schönhof or beautiful house is an absolute stunner. It is the oldest private Renaissance house in Gorlitz. It houses the Silesian museum, a fascinating spin through the history of the area. Grab an English language audio guide, head to the top and work your way down.
- Schlesesische Museum zu Görlitz, Brüderstraße 8
- Open: Tuesday – Thursday 10am – 5pm, Friday – Sunday 10am – 6pm
- Admission: €8
Barockhaus for a Beautiful Library
If you love books then make sure not to miss the Barockhaus museum at the bottom corner of the Untermarkt. In the museum proper you will find work by Hans Holbein and Dürer. What you are really here for, though, is the library upstairs. The Upper Lustatian Library of Sciences houses 140,000 books in what is considered to be one of the most beautiful libraries in the world.
- Barockhaus, Neißestraße 30
- Open: Tuesday – Sunday 10am – 4pm
- Admission: €6 or €9 for a combined ticket covering Kaisertrutz, Barockhaus and Reichenbacher Turm
Biblisches Haus for bible stories
Just a little further down the road from the Barockhaus is the splendid Biblishches Haus. Figures on the front of the house tell stories from the bible. No need to go in, the story can be seen from the street.
Walk to Poland Across the Altstadtbrücke (Old Town Bridge)
Keep heading downhill from the Untermarkt and you will come to the Altstadtbrücke. Make sure you have your passport with you. Walking across the bridge will take you into Poland. On the other side is the city of Zgorzelec. Up until the end of World War II they were one city. In 1945 the Germans blew up the bridge and after the war the border between Poland and Germany was drawn here. It was only in 2004 that the bridge was rebuilt and the two halves of the city reunited. If you are after sunset views then the Altstadtbrücke is the place to be.
Peterskirche for a Magnificent Organ
Look up from the bridge and you will see a church topped with two white towers. This is the Peterskirche, also called St Peter and St Paul — which confused me. Inside, the church is like the TARDIS: it seems so much larger than it looks outside, so large that there is room for five naves. Be sure not to miss the magnificent Sun Organ, featuring 17 suns and 6,095 pipes, including one that sounds like a cuckoo. Free organ concerts take place at noon on Sundays (also Tuesday and Thursday in the summer); you are encouraged to make a donation as you leave.
Nikolai Cemetery for Gothic Walks
If you like your walks to have a Gothic twist then the Nikolai Cemetery is for you. This is the oldest graveyard in Görlitz but has not been used for burials since the middle of the 19th century. That leaves a pleasant green space strewn with fascinating gravestones and monuments.
Heiliges Grab for a Glimpse into the Medieval Religious Mind
Heiliges Grab is absolutely extraordinary. It is the creation of a man who went on a pilgrimage to the Holy Land as an act of penance for getting a girl pregnant. Once home he set about recreating the Holy Sepulchre. There are three buildings. One is a two-storey chapel; in the upper room Christ is on the cross and there is a deliberate crack in the floor. This is to allow Christ’s blood to drip onto the tomb of Adam that lies beneath. In another building Mary cradles Christ’s body. A place of pilgrimage for those unable to make the journey to Jerusalem themselves.
- Heiliges Grab
- Jan – Dec daily 9-4, March, April, Sept, Oct 9 – 5, May – August 9 – 6
- Admission: €3
Görlitz as a Film Location
Movie makers love Görlitz — or Görliwood, as it sometimes styles itself. The Reader, The Monuments Men, The Grand Budapest Hotel and Around the World in 80 Days are just some of the blockbusters filmed here. It is easy to see why: not only is Görlitz beautiful, it also has stunning buildings from Gothic to Renaissance right up to Art Nouveau, offering film producers a wide choice.
Where to Eat in Görlitz
Tempting bars and cafés are everywhere in Görlitz. I really enjoyed the traditional food at the Bürgerstübl and was unable to resist the easternmost bar in Germany.
- Gambrinus Bierstuben, Schwartzestraße 1 – traditional Silesian food and beer, I ate Schlesisches Himmelrecht or Silesian Heaven pork stewed with prunes and dried apricots served with dumplings
- Ratscafé, Untermarkt 24 — eat in a film location; the Ratscafé played the funicular entrance in The Grand Budapest Hotel
- Vierradenmühle — Germany’s easternmost restaurant. At the very least, enjoy a glass of something overlooking the Germany–Poland border.
- Jesus Bakerei, Nikolaigraben 2/3 – not a place to sit in but to buy a cake, the Jesus Bakerei is the first stop on the way of the cross to the Heiliges Grab
Where to Stay in Görlitz
I didn’t stay in Görlitz, but if I had it would have been the Hotel Börse, a vast pink edifice on the Untermarkt beloved by film crews.
Practical Tips for Visiting Görlitz
- Best time to visit: I visited in spring when the surrounding countryside was dotted with glorious fields of yellow. In autumn the leaves are stunning and crowds are far smaller than in summer. At Christmas the squares of Görlitz fill with a magical market complete with an ice rink.
- Currency: Euro, but have some złoty if you plan on doing more than grabbing a coffee when in Poland.
- Language: German, although English was understood in most places.
- Travel tip: Görlitz is largely closed on Mondays.
Why Görlitz Deserves to Be on Your Travel List
Number one: Görlitz is insanely pretty. Görlitz’s architecture takes in Gothic churches, Baroque townhouses and Art Nouveau shops and stations. Filmmakers love Görlitz for its old-world charm. I visited as part of a tour that took in Bautzen, a couple of hours in Dresden and then a few days in Chemnitz. Add to all that its status as Germany’s most easterly town and the opportunity to walk to Poland and a visit to Görlitz is unmissable.
Germany is one of my favourite countries to visit. You can read about what we saw in Berlin, Chemitz, Weimar and our stay in Colditz Castle, which would make for an excellent East German road trip. Görliz is Germany’s most easterly town, over the years my travels have taken me to most westerly, Aachen, southerly Freiburg and northerly Flensburg, all of them beautiful.
