Lake Constance (Bodensee) is one of Europe’s best destinations for a car-free holiday. Spanning Germany, Austria and Switzerland, with Liechtenstein just a short hop away, the lake is easy to explore by train, ferry, bike and bus. From colourful medieval towns and UNESCO treasures to mountain views, vineyards and lakeside promenades, there is huge variety packed into a surprisingly compact area. This Lake Constance itinerary takes you to the best towns around the Bodensee, including Bregenz, Lindau and Konstanz, with practical tips on travelling around Lake Constance without a car plus whether the Bodensee Card PLUS is worth it.
I have visited Lake Constance many times, my most recent visit was as a guest of Visit Bodensee
Table of Contents
Five Day Lake Constance Car Free Itinerary
Five days is perfect for a slow travel car free tour of Lake Constance. You will have time to take in the view and savour the atmosphere of the lake.
- Day 1 – Visit St Gallen from Bregenz
- Day 2 – Morning explore Bregenz, take the Pfänderbahn for great views.
- Lunch time catch the boat to Lindau.
- Afternoon – explore Lindau and in the evening visit the Marionetteoper
- Day 3 – Catch the train to Friedrichshafen and visit the Zeppelin Museum then catch the boat or catamaran to Konstanz
- Day 4 – Morning visit Reichenau
- Afternoon explore Konstanz
- Day 5 – Day trip to Mainau and Meersburg from Konstanz
How to Explore Lake Constance without a car
My recommendation would be to stay at either end of the lake for a few days and one night in Lindau. That way you can take day trips and are not constantly packing and unpacking. My visits to Lake Constance have always started at Bregenz, so that is going to be where we start too!
Car Free Lake Constance
You do not need to drive once you get to Lake Constance. A network of trains, buses and boats can get you around the lake. On our first visit we cycled round the lake, mostly on car free cycle paths.
Bodensee Card PLUS
On my last visit I used a mixture of the Bodensee Card PLUS and Bodensee ticket for transport and entry into museums and attractions.
What is the Bodensee Card PLUS?
Just like the Bodensee Card but more. Cards come in 3 or 7 day versions. Transport is covered for either 1 or 3 days depending on the length of card. In addition to the transport you also get access to many attractions. Of the places mentioned in this blog post, only entry to Mainau island is not included in the Bodensee Card. So if you want to travel every day of your visit you will need both a Bodensee Plus and a Bodensee ticket, otherwise you are fine with just a Bodensee Plus card. You can buy the card online.
- Bodensee Card PLUS: 3 or 7 days (valid throughout the calender year)
- Costs 78€ for 3 days for one adult
What is the Bodensee Ticket?
Good question! One that took me some time to get my head round. Essentially it is a transport only card that comes in 1 or 3 day versions and can cover all or part of the lake. So if you want to travel on all the days of the your Bodensee Plus card you might need the Bodensee card… unless you’ve got a discount card that comes with your accommodation.
Are there any other Cards that cover transport around the Bodensee?
Yes! This is where it gets complicated! Some overnight accommodation providers will give you a card that covers public transport and discounts at attractions in their area of the Lake. You will need to ask your accommodation provider if they take part in these schemes. So if one of these cards comes with your accommodation, you may not need to purchase a Bodensee ticket. Hopefully that is clear… it has taken me a long time to get to grips with all of this!
- Bodensee West
- Echt Bodensee (the northern German shore)
- Liechtenstein
- St Gallen Bodensee
- Eastern Switzerland
- Bodensee Vorarlburg so if one of these cards comes with your accommodation, you may not need to purchase a Bodensee Card. Hopefully that is clear… it has taken me a long time to get to grips with all of this!
Is the Bodensee Card PLUS worth it?
Yes! On my last visit to Lake Constance entry into the library at St Gallen, the museums and cable car in Bregenz, the lighthouse and museum in LIndau and the castle at Meersburg would have cost me €79.80 and the card costs €78 for three days. On top of that my transport was covered. Simply for ease of getting around and visiting places the Bodensee Card PLUS is worth it.
Bregenz
Bregenz has great views both across Lake Constance and up to the mountains. Nestled between the mountains and the lake in Austria, it makes for a pleasant, culture filled spot to explore the eastern end of the lake.
What to see in Bregenz
Lake views, watch Opera, meander in cute streets, ascend a mountain and visit great museums in what’s on offer in Bregenz.
Lake Promenade
Strolling along the lake front or sitting under shady trees in the park by the lake are excellent things to do. You will find cafés and bars dotted around the park. My own favourite is the Fischsteg Sunset Bar.
Bregenzer Festspiel
Every summer Bregenz plays host to an opera festival. Where you can watch opera with dramatic lakeside backdrop. Even when the opera is not on you can visit the stage.
Vorarlberg Museum
Take a good look at the facade of the Vorarlberg Museum. At first sight it looks to be studded with concrete daisies, in fact they are formed from plastic bottles. Inside, in addition to a well displayed collection of local history you get great views both across Lake Constance and up to the mountains.
Bregenz Kunsthaus
Next door but one to the Vorarlberg Museum is the Kunstmuseum, aka KUB. A glass clad cube, designed by Peter Zumthor, inside the stark galleries are the perfect foil for an ever changing array on contemporary art exhibitions. Check the website for what is on. Outside is a concrete Porsche created by Gottfried Bechtold, keep your eyes open for other concrete Porsches and more contemporary art dotted around the streets of Bregenz.
Pfänder cable car
For the best views in Bregenz take the Pfänderbahn up to the top of the 1063 foot Pfänder mountain. At the top you can get a spectacular view taking in three countries across Lake Constance. Turn round and you are rewarded with views to the snow capped Alps. You can walk down (or, indeed up) but I have always gone there and back by cable car.
Where to Stay in Bregenz
- Studio 17 – a short walk from the train station, Festspeilhaus and lake Studio 17 is an Aparthotel. In addition to all the usual stuff you expect in an hotel room, my Studio 17 room had a well equipped mini kitchen, coffee maker and table and chairs for eating.
- Weißes Kreuz – we stayed here as family, great breakfasts and comfortable rooms.
Where to Eat and Drink in Bregenz
There are many tempting restaurants, bars and cafes in Bregenz, these are the ones that I have tried.
- Fischersteg Sunset Bar – possibly the most perfect place that I have ever drank a white wine spritzer at sunset. Set on a pier jutting into Lake Constance that was once a landing stage for Flying Boats. You get great views across the lake at sunset. Booking is not possible.
- Gasthaus Kornmesser – set in a Baroque mansion and serving traditional Austrian food.
- Vorarlberg Museum cafe – for lunch or morning coffee the Vorarlberg Museum cafe is a perfect pitstop.
- Milchpilz – for a cultural milk based drink head to the historic Milchpilz, which translates as Milk Mushroom. Dating from the 50’s the kiosk has been serving milk drinks and snacks ever since. Find the Milchpilz between the Voralberg museum and the lake shore.
Day trips from Bregenz
Bregenz is well connected and the perfect base to discover the western end of Lake Constance. UNESCO treasures and art galleries are just a short train ride away.
St Gallen
UNESCO treasures and seriously cute old town await you in St Gallen.
How to Get to St Gallen from Bregenz
Bregenz has three train stations. Bregenz Riedenburg, Bregenz Hafen and Bregenz. Bregenz is the one you want, the other two are served by slower regional trains. Once an hour there is a direct train to St Gallen that takes just under half an hour. Or you can change at St Margrethen (a really easy change, on the platform) for a journey that takes 35 minutes.
What to see in St Gallen
Textiles, sausages and a UNESCO listed library are what St Gallen is famous for. The old town is awash with handsome half timbered, painted houses.
Abbey of St Gall
St Gall founded the Abbey in 610, the splendid Baroque Abbey church dates from the 18th century. It was built at a time when the Catholic Abbey was surrounded by Protestant land. What better way to entice people back to the old way than building a church that was as fancy as possible in contrast to the plain interiors favoured by the Protestants? Inside the cathedral is a riot of gilding and painting.
Abbey Library
One of the oldest and most beautiful libraries in the world. Inside are ornately carved bookshelves. Putti hold up pillars. Books are everywhere. One of Switzerland’s most popular places to visit, with good reason. Keep an eye out for the original building plan for the Abbey of St Gall … the oldest building plan in the world.
Where to eat in St Gallen
St Gallen has its very own sausage the St Galler Bratwurst or OLMA Bratwurst. Locals reckon their sausage is so good that it needs no fancy sauces. No mustard. Just good bread. We ate our St Galler Bratwurst at Bratwurst and Bowls.
Lindau
You could see Lindau on a day trip, most people do. We stayed a night and saw a different side to the town. Strolling around the super cute streets after the crowds had gone was a treat and I would not have missed a visit to the Lindauer Marionettenoper for all the tea in China. Stay a night to see the super cute streets with fewer people and most of all to visit the puppet opera for the world.
How to get to Lindau
By far the most picturesque way to travel between Bregenz and Lindau is by boat. Once an hour Bodensee Schiff Fahrt or BSB boats leave from Bregenz Hafen and take about 20 minutes. You can catch a train from either Bregenz or Bregenz Hafen stations and the journey will take you about 15 minutes. In additions to the regular trains and boats to Bregenz, trains to Friedrichshafen go once an hour and take about 30 minutes. You can catch a boat from the harbour that will take you all the way to Konstanz stopping at Friedrichshafen, Meersburg and Mainau along the way. Sailing all the way to Konstanz will take 1 hour 25 minutes. All train and boast fairs are covered by the Bodensee Card PLUS.
What to see in Lindau
Lindau is an island, I have arrived both by bike across the causeway and by boat. How ever you arrive head straight to the harbour, the town’s heart.
Lindau Harbour
As you sail into Lindau harbour you are greeted by the Lion of Bavaria on one side of the harbour mouth and by the new lighthouse on the other. Well, I say new, it was built in 1856. You can admire the lighthouse from the outside or clamber up the 139 steps to enjoy great views across the lake. Entry is included in you Bodensee Card PLUS.
Maximilianstraße and Lindau Altes Rathaus
Running along the spine of Lindau is the shop and cafe linedMaximilianstraße. Keep an eye open for the extravagantly painted Rathaus or town hall. Built in the fourteenth century. Take a look at the clock, it is not in the centre of the building. To find out why, turn round and walk along Schneeberggasse, after about fifty paces, turn round and look back at the town hall. You will see the clock is neatly framed by the buildings on either side of the street.
Peterskirche or St Peter’s Church
Once a church dating from the 11th century and now a war memorial to people who died in World War 1. On the walls is the Lindauer Passion, the only surviving wall frescoes by Hans Holbein the Older (father of Hans Holbein the Younger court painter to Henry VIII).
Cavazzen Museum
Lindau’s most extravagantly painted house is home to the Cavazzen Museum. Step inside to discover the history of Lindau as a trade and transport hub. We had a really good lunch in the cafe in the courtyard.
Lindauer Marionetteoper
Opera performed by puppets. Yes, you read that correctly. I confess that I was sceptical. We saw The Magic Flute (Die Zauberflöte) and it was excellent. Afterwards you are invited backstage to meet the puppets and puppeteers, just an all round magical evening.
Where to stay in Lindau
- Insel Hotel, Maximillianstraße – friendly family owned hotel. We stayed here and my room had amazing views across Lake Constance to the snow capped Swiss Alps.
- Bayerischer Hof– if you deep pockets, then make like Victorian era visitors and stay in the Bayerischer Hof opposite the train station and overlooking the harbour.
Where to eat in Lindau
Lindau’s harbour and Maximillianstraße are lined with tempting bars, cafés and restaurants. We ate at…
- Alte Post, Fischergasse 3 – we ate dinner here, in the half timbered dining room. Traditional German food is on offer. I had fish from the lake with in season asparagus which was delicious.
- Cavazzo Cafe Bistro Bar – housed in the courtyard of the Cavazzen Museum, we ate lunch here.
Getting to Lindau
In additions to the regular trains and boats to Bregrenz, trains to Friedrichshafen go once an hour and take about 30 minutes. You can catch a boat from the harbour that will take you all the way to Konstanz stopping at Friedrichshafen, Meersburg and Mainau along the way. Sailing all the way to Konstanz will take 1 hour 25 minutes.
Friedrichshafen
As you travel around Lake Constance you may notice an airship floating overhead. Your eyes do not deceive you, it really is a Zeppelin. Invented and made in Friedrichshafen, making the town a compelling mix of holiday vibe and working town.
Getting to and leaving Friedrichshafen by boat, bus or train
Trains from Bregenz and Lindau arrive at the Stadtbahnhof. If you have a bag with you can leave it in the left luggage lockers (you will need €5 in coins) by platform one. Immediately outside the Stadtbahnhof is the bus station where you can catch a bus to Meersburg. Boats and ferries leave from the harbour outside the Zeppelin Museum, here you can catch a boat to Konstanz, which is covered by the Bodensee Plus card. If speed is of the essence you can catch a catamaran to Konstanz, which leave hourly and take an hour, you get a discount with the Bodensee Card PLUS. Mr CW took the catamaran and enjoyed the speedy connection.
What to do in Friedrichshafen
Stroll along the lake front, maybe take a swim from one of the town beaches. Whatever you do, don’t miss the excellent Zeppelin Museum.
Zeppelin Museum
Have you ever wondered what it would be like to be a passenger on an airship? Then a visit to the Zeppelin Museum is a must. You can climb aboard a reconstruction of the Hindenburg’s passenger quarters. The bedrooms are tiny and quite sparse but the public areas were kitted out in the latest, and lightest, Bauhaus designs. Learn all about the history of the Zeppelins from the early 20th century to now.
Where to eat in Friedrichshafen
We ate lunch at the Tress-Brüder organic cafe at the Zeppelin museum. Traditional Swabian food is served overlooking the Friedrichshafen harbour.
Konstanz
Konstanz is at the neck of the Bodensee where it narrows down into the River Rhine. Make sure not to miss the kilometre zero post, marking the place where the navigable Rhine officially begins. Founded by Romans, Konstanz has a handsome medieval centre. Between 1414-18 the great and the good of the medieval church world gathered here to sort out the Great Schism.
How to get to Konstanz by train, boat and bus
Konstanz train station, harbour and bus station are all next to each other making for easy transfers. We caught our train back to Zurich airport from here. To visit the Rhine Falls or Stein am Rhein, travel one stop to Kreuzlingen and change. Passenger boats to Meersburg and Mainau and the catamaran leave from the harbour. We caught the 4/13 bus to Mainau from outside the station and arrived by bus from Meersburg. The bus from Meersburg is particularly exciting because it boards a ferry along the route.
What to see in Konstanz
Make sure to take time to stroll around the medieval Altstadt and along the waterfront. Imperia guards the harbour mouth, she commemorates the Council of Konstanz, which elected Pope Martin V, solving the Great Schism.
Konstanz Minster
Once a cathedral, but demoted in a diocesan rearrangement Konstanz Minster is a romanesque beauty. Make sure not to miss the ornately carved main doors. Head down behind and under the main altar for the oldest part of the cathedral.
Where to eat in Konstanz
- Constanzer Wirtshaus, Spanierstr. 3 – we enjoyed spectacular riverside sunset views whilst eating Schnitzel at the Constanzer Wirtshaus
Where to stay in Konstanz
- Hotel Constantia, Kreuzlinger Straße – a short walk from the train station in a quiet area. Chic rooms, mine had a garden terrace and a good breakfast.
- Hotel Halm, right opposite the train station – we stayed here with our children when cycling around Lake Constance, one the most beautiful hotel breakfast rooms ever.
Day trips from Konstanz
Konstanz is a great place to base yourself at the eastern end of the Bodensee, with boats, buses and trains heading off in all directions. From Konstanz I have visited Reichenau, Mainau and Meersburg. I would suggest devoting a whole day to Reichenau and a day trip combining Mainau and Meersburg.
Mainau and Meersburg: Day Trip from Konstanz
Mainau is one of the world’s great gardens and Meersburg surrounded by vineyards and crowned with a castle make for an great day trip from Konstanz. Start your day by catching the 4/13 bus from outside the train station to Mainau. Boats take 20 minutes to get to the Meersburg from the jetty at Mainau. To get back to Konstanz catch the 700 bus from the Meersburg Kirche bus stop at the top of town. This is possibly the most exciting bus ride that I have ever taken because the journey takes you on a ferry.
Mainau Island
I have visited the gardens at Mainau Island at all times of year and they have looked beautiful in every season. My favourite? Spring, when tulips fill the meadows that lead down to the lake. Kevin the Peacock greets visitors who arrive by land clad in a floral display that changes with the seasons. Whatever time of year you visit try to make your visit either early or late in the day, that way you get the best light and avoid the worst of the crowds. Entry to Mainau is not included in the Bodensee Card PLUS.
Meersburg
Meersburg looks like it should be in a fairy tale. An ancient castle stands proud above streets filled with brightly coloured, half timbered houses, all leading down to the sparkling lake with views to snow capped mountains. All around the town are vineyards. Meersburg is the place to try the local wines.
Meersburg Altes Schloss
One of Germany’s oldest castles, the Altes Schloss has everything you want in a castle. Entry via a drawbridge over a moat, tick. High walls capped with turrets, tick. Dungeons, tick. Suits of armour, tick. A shady beer garden that serves excellent cake, tick. Entry is included with the Bodensee Card PLUS.
Reichenau – UNESCO gem
Only 8 kilometres from Konstanz Reichenau island feels not only like a different world but a different time. Benedictine monks founded a monastery here in 724 AD which became both a centre of learning and of vegetable growing. Reichenau vegetables are still highly prized today. In the museum at Reichenau you can see some of the ancient manuscripts for which the Abbey was famous.
Getting to Reichenau from Konstanz
You have three car free choices of how to get to Reichenau from Konstanz: Catch a ferry from Konstanz, ships sail three or four times a day during the summer and take just under an hour. Catch a train to Reichenau and then either walk across the 2km causeway or catch the 204 bus to the tourist information office actually on the island. On one visit I caught the boat, a word of warning, turn up promptly for your return journey or you may be left with a long wait for the next boat! On another occasion I cycled there on well marked, traffic free cycle paths.
Getting to Lake Constance from the UK
- Driving: When we cycled round Lake Constance we drove to Bregenz, stopping at Aachen on the way there and Reims on the way home. Our preferred channel crossing is by Eurotunnel and the drive time was about 12 hours door to door and we took two days.
- Flying: Last time I visited I flew into Zurich airport and then caught a train to Bregenz, stopping off at St Gallen on the way. Coming home we caught the train from Konstanz to Zurich airport.
- Train – To get to Bregenz from London takes about 10 hours by train and involves changing train in Paris, Strasbourg, Basel and Zurich. The journey between London and Konstanz takes about 8 hours and involves changing at Paris, Strasbourg and Offenburg.
When to visit Lake Constance/Bodensee
To make the most of criss crossing the Bodensee by boat visit between Easter and late Autumn when the full ferry service is in operation. In the winter months only the the car ferries between Meersburg and Konstanz and Friedrichshafen and Rorschach plus the Konstanz to Friedrichshafen catamaran run every day. Visit in the Spring and Autumn for a quieter lake. We cycled round in August and had excellent weather and nowhere was overcrowded. In Bregenz the Opera festival runs from late July to August. In December there are Christmas markets in many of the lakeside towns.
Why visit Lake Constance?
You can have an easy car free holiday. Perfect for slow travel, being as active as you want. You can cycle around the whole lake on traffic free cycle paths or criss cross the lake sat on the deck of a boat. There are three UNESCO heritage sites around the lake and a wealth of museums, plus one the great gardens of the world. My best thing, you journey round the lake can take you to four countries … Switzerland, Germany, Austria and Lichtenstein.
