Art, architecture and canals, Ghent has all in the ingredients of a perfect weekend destination. Add in that it is easy to get to, just under an hour away from Brussels Midi by train. This compact Flemish city is easy to stroll around, packed with museums, and brimming with medieval charm. Here’s how to spend 48 glorious hours in Ghent.
My most recent visit to Ghent was as a guest of Visit Gent and Visit Flanders, our first visits were independent.
Table of Contents
Day One: Medieval Marvels and Masterpieces
Spend your first day meandering round the historic centre, starting with the incredible Ghent altarpiece. Take time to get lost in the myriad of cute streets that wind around the main squares and sit in some of the many appealing bars and cafes.
St Bavo’s Cathedral
Begin your Ghent weekend at the heart of the city: St Bavo’s Cathedral (Sint-Baafskathedraal). Step inside and you’ll be greeted by soaring Gothic arches, golden light filtering through stained glass, and one of Europe’s greatest treasures, the Ghent Altarpiece by Jan van Eyck. Gazing at the soaring arches and magnificent baroque pulpit is free. If you want to see the Ghent Altarpiece you need to not only pay but book timed tickets in advance.
Jan van Eyck’s Ghent Altarpiece
Seeing the detail of the ‘Adoration of the Mystic Lamb’ up close is utterly unforgettable. At its centre is the Mystic Lamb, surrounding panels depict saints, clergy and the people that paid for the painting. You have a choice when buying your ticket. You can opt for a VR augmented exhibition that takes you on a deep dive into the altarpiece and before you see it in person or you can opt to just go straight to the Mystic Lamb. The first time I visited I did the VR and it was excellent but the second I opted just to stand and gaze at the panels. Either way be sure to look left as you enter the Cathedral for a magnificent Rubens altarpiece.
- St Bavo’s Cathedral Van Eyck Centre
- Open: Monday – Saturday 10am – 5pm, Sunday 1 – 5pm
- Admission: €16 with VR, €12.50 without. Booking essential
- Not included in the Gent Card but you do get a 10% discount
Belfry of Ghent
Just a few steps from St Bavo’s is the Belfry of Ghent, a proud UNESCO World Heritage site. Climb (or take the lift!) to the top for panoramic views over the terracotta rooftops and church spires. On a clear day, you can see right across to Bruges.
- Belfry of Ghent
- Open: Daily 10am – 6pm
- Admission: €11, free with Gent CityCard
St Nicholas Church
Just a little beyond the Belfry is Ghent’s third tower, St Nicholas church. Free to visit. Pop in to see the impressive Baroque altar.
St Michael’s Bridge
Follow the road down to St Michael’s Bridge. Once there turn and admire the postcard perfect view of the three towers of Ghent. Marvel at the fact that the bridge was positioned especially so visitors to the 1913 Great Exhibition could take in the view.
Graslei and Korenlei
Still on the bridge look over the side to see the Graslei and Korernlei. Two medieval quays lined with Guild houses. Take a look at the top of the gables to see the insignia of each guild. Meander along the quays, they are lined with bars, so the perfect place to stop and take in the views. The best time for photographs is either early morning or early evening when the crowds are less and the buildings reflected in the canal. This is also the place to embark on a canal tour.
Ghent canal tour
The best ways to appreciate the watery nature of Ghent is from a boat. In Gent the canal tour will take you along the Graslei and Korenlei, past the Gravensteen Castle and hidden gardens. On the way you will spy many cute streets which you can meander around later and get lost. Well that’s what we did. Top tip, head to the canal boat tour departure point to book your tour before taking in the quays, as you will probably have to wait for tour.
- Ghent Canal Tours
- Leave from Graslei
- Costs vary many are included in the Gent CityCard.
Gravensteen Castle
Gravensteen Castle or Het Gravensteen looks like a castle should. Big solid walls and battlements. Once the seat of the Counts of Flanders, it now houses an engaging museum of medieval life. Expect armour and torture devices. Make sure you get the audio tour which is one of the best that I’ve come across, funny and informative. Your climb to the ramparts will be rewarded with excellent views.
- Gravensteen Castle
- Open: Daily 10am – 6pm
- Admission: €13, free with CityCard
Day Two: Museums and more museums
Ghent has an abundance of excellent museums. Many of them are clustered to south of the centre around the Citadel Park. Catch a tram or river bus and enjoy a day of museums. When we visited as a family we spent the morning at MSK and then divided the afternoon between SMAK and STAM. Yes, a veritable alphabet soup of names.
MSK or Museum voor Schone Kunsten
Housed in a neo classical building MSK is home to a feast of art. Breughel, Hieronymous Bosch, Rubens and Van Dyck are all here. Upstairs you will find more recent Belgian masters like James Ensor, Paul Delvaux and René Magritte. At the moment as an extra special treat the top panels of the Ghent Altarpiece are being restored in the museum and you see the work in progress. It is incredible to see the works close up and at eye level rather than high up on the altar … worth the train ticket to Ghent alone. The only flaw of the MSK, in my opinion, is its lack of cafe. Thankfully the SMAK, immediately opposite does.
- MSK https://www.mskgent.be/en/
- Open: Tuesday – Sunday 10.30 – 5.30pm (Weekends 10am – 6pm)
- Admission: €22, free with CityCard
SMAK or Stedelijk Museum voor Actuele Kunst
Modern art has its home at SMAK. At the the we visited the display was at the challenging end of the spectrum. We did however really like the cafe.
- SMAK
- Open: Tuesday – Sunday 9.30am – 5.30pm
- Admission: €18, free with CityCard
STAM
Ghent’s city museum, perfect for understanding how this medieval powerhouse evolved into today’s vibrant university city. The giant aerial map you can walk across is a particular delight. Also with a good cafe.
- STAM
- Open: Thursday – Tuesday 9am – 5pm (weekends 10am – 6pm)
- Admission: €11, free with CityCard
Practicalities: Making the Most of Your Weekend in Ghent
Ghent is easily reached by train from Brussels, about half an hour. I would hop on a tram for the journey from the station to the historic centre. Once you are there the centre is wonderfully walkable. If you’re planning to pack in the sights, consider a CityCard Gent, which gives you access to public transport, museums, boat trips but not the Ghent altarpiece, although you do get a discount. Don’t forget to try Cuberdons or Gentse neus whilst you are in the city. These are purple sweets and a city speciality.
Driving in Ghent
If you are thinking of driving to Ghent you need to plan ahead. Ghent has a low emission zone. Check online if your car is allowed and if it is register. It is quick, easy and free to do online, if you don’t you will be fined.
Where to Stay in Ghent
Stay centrally so you can stroll home along the canals after dinner. Ghent has many chain hotels and some cute boutique hotels. Yalo Hotel is chic boutique hotel with a roof garden. Ibis Gent Centrum St Baafs and Novotel Gent Centrum are both slap, bang, opposite the Cathedral.
Where to eat in Ghent
The first time we visited we just took pot luck and walked into the restaurants that we liked the look of. Every meal was excellent. If you want something really special the Olivier Le Petit Restaurant is excellent.
Why Ghent Deserves Your Weekend
With its mix of medieval splendour, world-class art and laid-back charm, Ghent is the kind of city that seeps quietly into your heart. We were enchanted by the mix of squares and tightly packed medieval streets. Bars and restaurants spilled out onto the streets during our summer visit. Seeing the Jan van Eyck’s Altarpiece in the Cathedral is definitely a pilgrimage worth making.
Belgium is favourite destination of Cultural Wednesday, just a short hop through the Eurotunnel or on the Eurostar. Check out my guide to exploring Belgium by train. Maybe you fancy following in Ruben’s footsteps in Antwerp. Or discovering the university town of Leuven. Or discovering that Mons really is full of quite steep hills. Or exploring the Belgian coast on the world’s longest tramline. Or finding fashion in Antwerp. Or follow in the footsteps of Anne Boleyn in Mechelen.
